WINE SIPPER; MERITAGE REDS

MERITAGE REDS

Meritage (it rhymes with "heritage"): a trade-marked name coined by California winemakers to describe a Bordeaux-style blend made in America. Only those who join the association and agree to stick with the classic Bordeaux grapes--Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, and Petit Verdot for reds--are allowed to label their wines Meritage. For this tasting, we also included a number of wineries that make beautiful blends, but haven't jumped on the Meritage bandwagon, and even threw in a wine from Bordeaux just to keep things interesting. Here are the top picks in what was a very, very close race.

1999 Estancia Meritage, Alexander Valley, $28.50

Very expressive aromas dominated by plum and dark berry fruit, with a nice kiss of toasty oak and a touch of black olive. Beautifully intense fruit in a big, but balanced wine with ripe cherry and blueberry flavors. The blend is Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and it's drinking great now with just a hint of smooth tannins on the finish. A very good value on a top quality wine.

Three Rivers Winery River's Red, Columbia Valley, $14.99

This Walla Walla winery really has something going with this unusual blend of Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese, Merlot and Syrah. No, it wouldn't qualify as a Meritage, but it certainly can hold its own in their company. The grapes for this soft and supple wine are from both 1999 and 2000, and the sweet berry fruit flavors are a real sucker punch. Touches of toasty oak, black pepper, clove and coffee add interest too the lovely floral aromas, with hints of cedar, vanilla, and cherry adding layers of flavor in the mouth. An absolute bargain.

1998 St. Sup�ry Meritage, Napa Valley, $46

The wine press has not been kind to the 1998 red wine vintage in Napa Valley, but this Cabernet dominated wine has all the right stuff. The aromas are enticing, with creamy cassis, cherry and berry fruit and complex nuances of mocha, anise, clove and white pepper. The flavors are highlighted by ripe plums and blackberry with touches of anise and bittersweet chocolate. A more serious wine with the best structure and balance of this group. Not cheap, but worth the money if you're looking for something special.

This week's panel: Matt Burbank, BRJ Wines; Brandon Bruins, Idaho Wine Merchant; Fawn Goldy, Tastevin; David Kirkpatrick, Boise Co-op; Cindy Limber, Richard's Across the Street; Eric McLaughlin, Wild West Wines and Spirits; Phil Neville, Bardenay; Kevin Settles, Bardenay